Traveling to the South of France is like going back in time. The glitz and glam of the old Hollywood type seem to fit in amongst the tourists and locals with ease. There are a multitude of places to visit. I've been twice now and have so much more to see on my next adventures there. The first time I stayed in Nice and did day trips to Cannes, Ezé-Village, and Monaco. The second time I again stayed in Nice, (it's so central & the airport for the region is based there) and visited Ezé-Beach, Monaco, Menton where I walked across the border to a private Italian beach club, and ventured into Ventimigilia, Italy which I would not recommend. If you're looking to go into Italy, it's worth the 20 additional minutes to go to San Remo. I wish I had listened to my Uber driver, but not every trip can be perfect! Please learn from my mistake. I highly recommend visiting the French Riviera, but don't feel rushed to fit it all into one trip, you can always come back for more!
1. EZÉ + NIETZSCHE PATH
I did a ton of research prior to my trip. I originally planned to stay in Ezé Village, a medieval fortress village, but the Chateau was well over $600/night and that was out of my budget. Additionally, cabs charge a premium because they know aside from the Nietzsche Path or bus, the only way up is by car. So I just left it on my adventure bucket list of places I would visit. I took the train from Nice to Ezé which is one of the most rural stations I've come across while traveling. I saw no signs and my wifi wasn't working for my map to load so I just decided to take a right. This led me down to the waters edge - not the direction I had intended as the hike is actually UP the mountain. What I walked into was unreal, there were only two other people down there and no signs of anyone else coming there anytime soon. I noted an almost sunken concrete path leading out to the water so I did a little hop skip and jump and made my way out - fully clothed - into the harbor. It was absolutely stunning and I made a mental note to come back there when I visited in the summertime, as I knew there must be some cool pop up places that come to life. I made my way back through the train station and up to the main road where I found a sign to the path. Now the history of the path is quite wild. It says that a philosopher, back in 1883 walked up and down this steep path finding inspiration to complete his philosophical novel, Thus Spoke Zarathustra, after settling into Eze on his journey to find happiness and peace.
I did not plan accordingly. I was used to hikes in LA being difficult but pushing through in 40 minutes so when I read that it was a 1-2 hour hike I laughed it off - amateurs. Nope, they were not lying. I had no water and was wearing a dress, in my Stan Smiths; All smart hiking choices. The photos can tell the story, as can my video blog that will accompany this post at at later time. There were a total of 9 other people coming from the top or hiking up ahead of me in that 90 minute span. One Italian woman asked me if I wanted water - was it that obvious that I was a tourist. I declined but once I reached the top and entered the village, I found the first shop with water and drank the entire bottle. I explored the village and enjoyed seeing all of the cobblestone and tiny doors. I made my way to the chateau, somehow grabbed the last table and a glass of wine, a cheese plate of course and was handed a blanket - it's not that warm in January. I sat there for several hours taking in the insane views and watching the sunset. I chose to Uber home, there's no way in hell I was hiking down those ancient stone stairs in the dark.
Cut to this year, when I went to Europe in the summer. I made true on my promise to myself to visit Ezé again and found the most fabulous restaurant on the waters edge. I enjoyed a fabulous lunch at Anjuna and soaked in the views of my favorite little French village in the summer sun.
2. RUHL PLAGE
I chose to stay at a different hotel in Nice my second time around, The Deck Hotel, which was perfectly situated between the city and the beach. I was thrilled with my decision except there was no pool. The hotel, to make up for it, has a partnership with a beach club, Ruhl Plage. I had a great experience there. You get a discounted rate on a daybed by staying at the hotel, and the servers come by as frequently as you'd like a new drink, bite to eat, or if you're lucky (& you made a good impression) a more premier daybed upgrade at the water! The beach in Nice is made up smooth, yet very uncomfortable-on-your-feet rocks, so I do recommend brining watershoes (they sell them all over town but it is more expensive) or flip flops/slides. If you're planning to swim, however, I definitely recommend watersheds because when those waves push you over in the rocks, it's less than enjoyable, trust me. The immense blue water looks almost like it was dyed for your viewing pleasure. There is a dock that resembles a short pier and you can jump off the end or climb out of the water via the ladder. Showers and toilets are on site as well as the restaurant if you want a break from the sun. Make sure to check it out and tell Fabien I sent you.
3. LE PLONGEOIR
I'm a sucker for a great dining experience when traveling. I think between food and wine, there's no better way to spend your money on a trip, especially when so many sites are free! I dig around on IG or different travel blogs looking for the places you may not hear of from your concierge. This restaurant was featured in several must-see lists and I couldn't resist making a reservation. I had a beautiful table on the edge facing the city and the rock formations that make this restaurant so insanely unique. The main dining area, as well as the kitchen, and bar area, are all built atop or into a rock formation. I ordered a glass of wine, and even though they were sold out that night, I was never rushed. This is probably my favorite things about dining in France, you will never feel like you're taking up too much time while enjoying your meal. Typically, for a nice dinner, you should plan 2-3 hours. I ordered two dishes and dessert. As each course came out, I marveled at the location, at how blessed I was to have been able to travel back to the south of France, and at one moment I looked down to the waters below me - and I can not make this up - two men were flailing about trying to row a blow up boat from the beach out to sea. It was hilarious. Although I can't guarantee you would be so lucky for the entertainment, I can guarantee that the food is amazing and the service next level. Try to make your reservation for sunset, I can't imagine a more beautiful place to be!
4. SHOPPING IN MONACO
I mean - there's not much to say here except it's like walking around Beverly Hills - just in Europe. On either side of Casino Monaco, the streets are flanked with high end shopping. Monaco is extremely expensive and that's reflective in the stores. For those searching for a nice piece that won't break the bank, you can visit Zara - they have some of the same items as are in Paris' locations, but I definitely saw some pieces that were not. It's fun to just walk around and take in all that Monaco has to offer, but if you're looking to shop the day away, make sure you bring transportation. Lugging those bags back to the train station would be quite a hike since its underground and a bit of a walk from the Casino. If you're "looking for a sugar daddy with a boat" as you may see on TikTok, I would highly suggest hanging at the marina or at one of the many restaurants surrounding it. Best of luck!
5. LA SPIAGGETA DEI BALZI ROSSI
Another IG find on my part, La Spiaggeta dei Balzi Rossi may just be my most favorite of finds. Getting there was one of the coolest things I've done - because how often do you get to cross the French-Italian boarder, by foot. You take the train from Nice to Menton, the second Menton stop. Walk down towards the water and follow it to the left all the way. It's about a 20 minute walk. You'll see some incredible water, the hillside is gorgeous, and the shots of Menton from the border are top notch. I walked across, ready to show my Passport but all that I did was smile at the border patrol officers and continued on my way. You'll enter a parking lot and keep walking through some buildings until you see a large rock formation type of beach with a lot of locals hanging out. You continue on even further and will see the entrance to the day club. This was my first experience in Italy and it was a very welcoming one. They had saved me the perfect beach chair with a rock next to it to, eventually, help me take some epic selfies. haha- no but seriously, I was able to prop my phone up and well, whatever if you know how to use the timer who needs a photographer! The water was a multitude of aquas, there was a restaurant behind the daybeds that people would be taxi'd in from their yachts to enjoy. The lifeguard was super cute too, which never hurts. The food was delicious as was the champagne and I stayed and enjoyed the summer day for hours upon hours. On site you will fine a restroom, shower and changing room, in case you're like me and had several things planned for the day. I wasn't lucky enough to be there for their movie on the beach nights or any of their live music but from what I've seen on IG, it's worth incorporating that into your plans!
6. RESTAURANTS ALONG PLAGE MACÉ
My very first stop after checking into my hotel in Nice was Cannes. You hear about Cannes for the film festival and epic parties, I was there the first of January, no such parties to be seen. However, it had a nostalgic elegance and charm that made me feel transported to the 50's when Grace Kelly, Sophia Loren or Bridgette Bardot could be seen gracing the red carpet. I enjoyed strolling along the Promenade de la Croissette, eventually finding my way to Miramar Plage for a late lunch/early dinner. The tables were in the sand, a level of relaxation at a meal I hadn't remembered since a dinner I experienced in Cabo. The food was great, the wine was exquisite as I've come to expect in France. I enjoyed my time in Cannes but I do plan to go back for the festival one year, who has a yacht they'd let me borrow?!
7. CENTRO STORICO DI NIZZA
I can not speak highly enough of Nice. The restaurants are amazing, the people are always welcoming, and the sites are plentiful. You can stroll through the narrow alleys or the main areas with restaurants galore. You will never run out of food options in Nice, thats for sure. I found an amazing place down the way from my hotel to have Avo Toast, another for crepes, yet another for a Michelin star dinner at Le Séjour (my googlemaps review that I left WHILE I was still eating there has had 3,400+ views), and gelato for days. Some of my photos literally look like areas of Epcot in Disney, but the real version. I adore Nice and can not wait to return and continue my exploring.
I truly hope you find your way to the South of France. I can't wait to hear your stories and recommendations!!
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